Track racing is not for the faint-hearted.  Track bikes, meant for velodrome racing, are fixed-gear bikes.  This means they are not only single speed, but do not freewheel (no coasting).  If the pedals are turning, the wheels are turning, and it takes quite a lot of skill to master riding a “fixie”.  Additionally, track bikes have NO BRAKES.


Tires on a track bike are very narrow.  Racers still prefer tubular tires (as opposed to “clinchers” found on most road bikes) that can be inflated to extremely high pressures for less rolling resistance.

Track bikes have different geometry than road bikes:  the bottom bracket is higher to prevent pedals from touching a steeply banked track; the head tube is steeper, for more responsive steering (there is a lot of jockeying for position in track racing); the seat tube is steeper, for maximum power and aerodynamics.  Track frames are extremely rigid for direct power transfer; light weight is not as important as rigidity.  Carbon is the preferred material, although track bikes also come in steel and aluminum.

Track bikes have one gear.  Bigger gears, which make it easier to hold top speed longer, are preferred – typically, the front chainring is a 52-55 tooth, and the rear cog is 12-14 tooth (by contrast, a 53/12 combination is often the HIGH end of a road bike’s range).  Track racers pedal at very high cadence, allowing them to “jump” (accelerate quickly) and maintain top speed easily.

Track bikes have also found a niche in the urban bike-messenger and urban commuter community, partly for their simplicity, partly for the element of danger and need for serious bike handling skill that comes with riding a bicycle with no brakes!
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The sport of cyclo-cross is an intense, fun mix of cycling (generally over rolling, grassy and muddy terrain), obstacles and running.  Some obstacles can be ridden (much to the crowd’s delight) but some require the rider to leap off the bike, typically carrying some speed, picking up the bike, running with it and scaling the obstacle, jumping back on, and riding.


For that reason, ‘cross bikes need to be sturdy yet light, and have ample clearance for wider, knobby tires.  Many road frames cannot be converted to ‘cross because of the lack of tire clearance; likewise, mountain frames cannot be converted to ‘cross because of the different wheel sizes.  ‘Cross bikes have to be light – the rider may have to carry the bike as many as 30 times during a race!  Many have high bottom brackets for mud clearance and have old-style cantilever brakes which shed mud easily.

For many people, a stable of bikes is not an option.  For a bike that can truly, honestly do it all, I would recommend a cyclo-cross bike over any other type.  With a relaxed road geometry (more upright riding position), road handlebars and shifters, geared somewhere between a road bike and a mountain bike gearing, and wide, knobby tires (typically 28-35c), a cyclo-cross bike is equally at home on the road or (non-technical) trail. 

Frames can be any material:  steel, titanium, aluminum, carbon.  Forks are typically carbon, but sturdier than a road fork.  Wheels are surprisingly not much beefier than modern road wheels, but hold up well.

This is a perfect commuter bike, even if the sport of cyclo-cross isn’t appealing.  It handles gravel roads, mud and rough pavement with much more confidence than a road bike, yet is much faster than a mountain bike.
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Built for pure, aerodynamic efficiency more than long-ride comfort, these are the speed demons of the road bike world.  TT (time trial) and Tri (triathlon) are closely related – but not exactly the same.

The rider is positioned quite low on specialized “aerobars”, handlebars that support rider weight at the forearm (the rider is crouched forward, resting his weight on his forearms rather than the hands).  Shifters and brakes are mounted on the aerobars so the rider doesn’t have to change position at all – the controls are literally at the rider’s fingertips.

Rider position is quite aggressive.  The aerobars are often a few inches lower than the saddle, putting the rider in an aerodynamic position for maximum leverage and power. – and speed.  Gearing on a TT bike is similar to that of a road race bike, with one exception – the big chainring is often much larger (55-tooth as opposed to the traditional 53-tooth of a road racer).  This allows the rider to push enormous gears.  Some TT bikes don’t have a smaller chainring.  This depends on the terrain (hill-climb TT bikes are not a genre of their own, but rather extremely lightweight and stiff road bikes).  Tri bikes are generally geared the same as a road racer, with 53/39 tooth front chainrings.  Many Ironman-length triathletes prefer a slightly more upright position than TT bikes offer, to maximize rider comfort over the course of the 100-mile plus cycling portion of the triathlon.

TT/Tri racers have the option of racing with disc wheels that reduce drag and improve aerodynamics.  Frames are likewise shaped for maximum aero benefit – every detail down to bolts and seat tubes is considered.  Skinsuits, shoe covers, hydration bladders that fit under skinsuits, and teardrop helmets are the norm among serious TT racers.  Tri racers don’t have time to change into TT gear and don’t use it.
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Downhill mountain (DH) biking is pure, gravity-assisted fun. Held at ski areas worldwide, DH races are individual time-trials (racing against the clock, riders go one at a time down the course). The terrain is mostly very steep and often extremely technical. There are many impossible-looking obstacles and drops that the riders jump, and the entire course is designed for high-speed descending. DH bikes are not designed for climbing!

DH riders wear motorcycle-style full-body protection. Even non-racers are encouraged to wear full body armor because of the danger of the sport. This is not a sport for beginning riders. DH requires superior bike handling skills, and above all, no fear. Being timid on a DH bike will only lead to crashes! In DH, speed is a friend, not an enemy – but it takes skill to control the bike on a fast, rocky, steep course.

DH has brought welcome business to ski areas during the summer. Many ski areas offer DH bike rentals and classes. DH bikes are transported to the top of the mountain by chairlift, and the riders descend back to the base on a variety of trails. Most ski areas have beginner, intermediate and advanced courses.

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Great article about bike prices (What Should I Pay? by Tom Demerly):


Understanding bike pricing is an important tool before your shop for a new bike.
"Deciding what to pay for a new bike is a first step in narrowing your choices. Price is a metric that positions you on the “good/better/best” continuum of fit and position, components, materials and overall ownership experience. How do you decide what to pay? Your options may be decided for you by budget. Within those constraints understanding your options and how bike prices work is powerful knowledge before you hit the sales floor of the local bike shop...." (read full article)

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Charity bike rides make for such a rewarding way to spend a few hours, a day, a weekend, or more, because they bring so many benefits to so many people.

When we talk about cycling for charity there are usually two ways you can get involved - the first is to enter an organised charity bike ride event, and the second is to do your own thing!

Organised Charity Bike Rides
 
In terms of the number of participants, organised charity bike rides will always attract more people across the space of a year. For me, a keen cyclist, there are several reasons why this is the case.

Charitable bike rides are highly organised events; they have marshals and volunteers to help you out should something go wrong, and to point you in the right direction when you're unsure of the route. Most importantly for me is the chance to use major roads without having to worry so much about traffic. Some charity bike ride organisers will go so far as to close the route roads completely, whilst others will set up recommended diversions for other road users. Not having to worry so much about the traffic around you makes a charity bike ride so much fun, because you can relax and enjoy yourself!

Another reason why I like charity bike rides so much is because you know you're helping out by participating. If you can have a fun day out, and know that you're doing some good, it makes cycling even more rewarding. Why not make the most of a highly organised event and benefit from the additional satisfaction you get from completing the course?!

There are also the health benefits: cycling is a very good cardiovascular activity, and if you cycle regularly that's even better. Some participants in charity bike rides make the mistake of thinking they can handle the route without prior training - on some easier rides you may find this is OK, but for longer rides it's not advisable. Firstly because you can injure yourself, and end up doing more harm than good, and secondly because you may not be able to finish the course, thereby jeopardising your sponsorship (if applicable).

The final great benefit I see with charitable cycling events is the community involvement. Not only are these events a great way to get out and meet new people from your community, they're a great boost to the community too. Community spirit really reins when everybody comes together for a good cause!


Individual Cycling for Charity

Of course, not everybody wants to be a part of a highly organised event, sharing the road with hundreds, possibly thousands, of other cyclists! Cycling as an individual in the name of charity is also a popular and fun way to do some good.

If you're considering cycling across your country, or continent, it takes a lot of planning and hard work - you can't just set out one day! Carefully choosing your charity in advance is essential, and it's best if you actually get their backing because this could help you out with getting sponsorship, both in terms of raising money for the charity, and raising money for your expenses. Whether you're participating in an organised charity bike ride, or are cycling independently, you'll find charity bike rides are rewarding and worthwhile experiences!
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WSD Road Bike
"WSD Road Bike" stands for Women's Specific Design Road Bikes. Women's bike sizes generally run a few sizes smaller then men's bikes, accommodating riders from about 4'10" to 5'10" in height. Road frames range from 42cm to 57cm. Taller women can often ride a men's bike, but very short women almost always need a women's bike - if for no other reason than men's frames don't come in very petite sizes.

WSD Road Bike Trek
Why is it important for a woman to at least be fitted to and test ride a women's specific bike?  The biggest reason is that men's bikes have a proportionately longer "cockpit" (the distance from the saddle to the handlebards), as well as wider handlebards.  This puts the woman in an uncomfortable position - as she tries to get a good grip on the handlebars, she is forced to stretch too far forward.  Riding a too-long bike results in neck pain, numb hands, sore back and saddle pain.  Riding stretched out puts tremendous pressure on the soft tissue of the crotch, rather than concentrating rider weight on the pelvic bones.  Shortening the cockpit puts the female rider into a much more comfortable and biomechanically efficient position.  Handlebars on a women's specific bike are narrower, and the bikes come with female-specific saddles which are wider than men's, to better support a female pelvis.  Bike fit is crucial to rider comfort and pedaling efficiency, as well as injury prevention.

Note that not all women are suited for a women's specific bike! Some women have shorter legs and longer torsos, more like men. In those instances, a men's bike is fine (as long as she is tall enough), with the only modification necessary being the saddle and possibly a few adjustments to custom-fit the bike.

WSD Road Bike Manufacturers
All of the big bicycle manufacturers in the USA now offer road bikes designed just for women riders.  The four largest are Trek, Specialized, Giant and Cannondale.  Of the four, Trek and Specialized take the women's market very, very seriously.  They offer women's road bikes for everyone from entry-level to racers, for all budgets and with many component groups to choose from.  There might be a lack of "wow factor" with bikes from the big companies (the name just doesn't carry the status or appeal of a boutique brand) but the ride quality of the bikes is definitely world-class.  Every year, there are more and more women's bikes to choose from.

It can still be difficult to get a female-specific bike from small manufacturers who only offer stock frames (not custom); that said, small "boutique" bike builders may use frame geometry that is female-friendly.  Most women definitely fit better on a female-specific bike with a shorter top tube, narrower handlebars and women's saddle.  Some "unisex" bikes tend to run relatively short in the top tube - so if a manufacturer you're interested in does not offer a women's bike, get sized on their bikes anyway.  You may be surprised!

Of course with custom frame builders it's no problem to get a bike that will be a perfect fit for the woman rider.

The most important thing is to have a bike professionally fitted for your individual needs.  There is simply no reason to ride a poorly-fitting bike.

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Source: Women's Bikes - mbikeworld.com
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Recumbent bicycles are bicycles that allow the rider to sit leaning back, with feet up to pedal. There are a wide variety of recumbent bike styles. Since they are usually manufactured in small quantity, they tend to have very unique characteristics.

Recumbent bikes can have over seat or under seat steering. In over seat steering, the rider uses a regular handlebar arrangement. In under seat steering, the steering is accomplished using a handlebar arrangement that protrudes from either side of the seat, allowing the arms to be down by the rider's side when steering.

Recumbent bikes can also have two or three wheels. The two wheel variety are harder to control at slow speeds, as the low center of gravity makes it harder to maintain balance. Three wheelers have greater stability, and are easier to get started and stopped. When stopped, the rider does not have to remove his feet from the pedals on a three wheeler.

Three wheel recumbent bikes come in two different types. The delta variety has two rear wheels and a single front wheel. The tadpole variety is just the opposite, with two front wheels and a single rear wheel behind the rider's seat.

Recumbent bicycles are generally much safer than upright bicycles. Because they are close to the ground, the fall from a recumbent bike is from a shorter distance, and less likely to be a head first fall.

It is also more comfortable to ride a recumbent bicycle. The body is in a seated position in something more like a chair, not straddling a seat as with a bicycle. There is no weight on the arms, hands, or shoulders as one would have in a upright bicycle. With the leaned back position, the rider is free to enjoy the scenery around him without straining his neck. Recumbent bicycles are a good choice for those who suffer from chronic neck and back pain.

Recumbent bikes are not always easy to find in some parts of the country, and they are fairly expensive to purchase. If you are unable to locate a bike to try, you may find a stationery one at a local gym or YMCA.
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Deciding to go on a cycling tour can very well be one of the best decisions you can make. This will not only give you much needed exercise, but will also allow you to recharge your batteries by taking in the view of the country and breathing in some fresh air.

Bicycle touring of any kind is an excellent way to burn calories and shed some pounds in the process. Riding and touring, on the other hand, provide you with an even more effective means of losing weight because you will be far away from your usual temptations and you will actually be more inspired because of the sense of adventure.

Among the first decisions you have to make when going on a tour is to select a destination. You will then have to choose whether to join one that is guided or follow your own instincts. Going on a self-guided cycling tour, offers more flexibility and allows you to enjoy the experience so much more. You will still receive a copy of the route, but you will be able to cycle at the speed that you prefer without worrying about staying with the rest of the group.

Companies that offer tours will provide you with a host of cycles to choose from, some of which even have GPS navigation systems that will give you a sense of security even when following unfamiliar paths. The hotel accommodations will all be taken care of as well. All you have to do is to get yourself checked in, have a good night's sleep and get ready for another day of cycling the following morning.

There are some things that you will have to do on your own. For example replacing flat tires or handling other types of repairs. You will also have to bring your bike helmet to use as these are usually not provided by the tour companies.

If you prefer a more organized plan, then opt for the guided cycling tour, which means that you will be traveling with a party of other cyclists and a couple of guides. These guides will provide you with everything you need along the way, and you will have to follow a strict itinerary along with the rest of the cyclists. Most bicycle tours usually last for about a week or so, and covers about 52 miles (60 kilometers) a day.
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