Track racing is not for the faint-hearted. Track bikes, meant for velodrome racing, are fixed-gear bikes. This means they are not only single speed, but do not freewheel (no coasting). If the pedals are turning, the wheels are turning, and it takes quite a lot of skill to master riding a “fixie”. Additionally, track bikes have NO BRAKES.
Tires on a track bike are very narrow. Racers still prefer tubular tires (as opposed to “clinchers” found on most road bikes) that can be inflated to extremely high pressures for less rolling resistance.
Track bikes have different geometry than road bikes: the bottom bracket is higher to prevent pedals from touching a steeply banked track; the head tube is steeper, for more responsive steering (there is a lot of jockeying for position in track racing); the seat tube is steeper, for maximum power and aerodynamics. Track frames are extremely rigid for direct power transfer; light weight is not as important as rigidity. Carbon is the preferred material, although track bikes also come in steel and aluminum.
Track bikes have one gear. Bigger gears, which make it easier to hold top speed longer, are preferred – typically, the front chainring is a 52-55 tooth, and the rear cog is 12-14 tooth (by contrast, a 53/12 combination is often the HIGH end of a road bike’s range). Track racers pedal at very high cadence, allowing them to “jump” (accelerate quickly) and maintain top speed easily.
Track bikes have also found a niche in the urban bike-messenger and urban commuter community, partly for their simplicity, partly for the element of danger and need for serious bike handling skill that comes with riding a bicycle with no brakes!
The sport of cyclo-cross is an intense, fun mix of cycling (generally over rolling, grassy and muddy terrain), obstacles and running. Some obstacles can be ridden (much to the crowd’s delight) but some require the rider to leap off the bike, typically carrying some speed, picking up the bike, running with it and scaling the obstacle, jumping back on, and riding.
For that reason, ‘cross bikes need to be sturdy yet light, and have ample clearance for wider, knobby tires. Many road frames cannot be converted to ‘cross because of the lack of tire clearance; likewise, mountain frames cannot be converted to ‘cross because of the different wheel sizes. ‘Cross bikes have to be light – the rider may have to carry the bike as many as 30 times during a race! Many have high bottom brackets for mud clearance and have old-style cantilever brakes which shed mud easily.
For many people, a stable of bikes is not an option. For a bike that can truly, honestly do it all, I would recommend a cyclo-cross bike over any other type. With a relaxed road geometry (more upright riding position), road handlebars and shifters, geared somewhere between a road bike and a mountain bike gearing, and wide, knobby tires (typically 28-35c), a cyclo-cross bike is equally at home on the road or (non-technical) trail.
Frames can be any material: steel, titanium, aluminum, carbon. Forks are typically carbon, but sturdier than a road fork. Wheels are surprisingly not much beefier than modern road wheels, but hold up well.
This is a perfect commuter bike, even if the sport of cyclo-cross isn’t appealing. It handles gravel roads, mud and rough pavement with much more confidence than a road bike, yet is much faster than a mountain bike.
Built for pure, aerodynamic efficiency more than long-ride comfort, these are the speed demons of the road bike world. TT (time trial) and Tri (triathlon) are closely related – but not exactly the same.
The rider is positioned quite low on specialized “aerobars”, handlebars that support rider weight at the forearm (the rider is crouched forward, resting his weight on his forearms rather than the hands). Shifters and brakes are mounted on the aerobars so the rider doesn’t have to change position at all – the controls are literally at the rider’s fingertips.Rider position is quite aggressive. The aerobars are often a few inches lower than the saddle, putting the rider in an aerodynamic position for maximum leverage and power. – and speed. Gearing on a TT bike is similar to that of a road race bike, with one exception – the big chainring is often much larger (55-tooth as opposed to the traditional 53-tooth of a road racer). This allows the rider to push enormous gears. Some TT bikes don’t have a smaller chainring. This depends on the terrain (hill-climb TT bikes are not a genre of their own, but rather extremely lightweight and stiff road bikes). Tri bikes are generally geared the same as a road racer, with 53/39 tooth front chainrings. Many Ironman-length triathletes prefer a slightly more upright position than TT bikes offer, to maximize rider comfort over the course of the 100-mile plus cycling portion of the triathlon.
TT/Tri racers have the option of racing with disc wheels that reduce drag and improve aerodynamics. Frames are likewise shaped for maximum aero benefit – every detail down to bolts and seat tubes is considered. Skinsuits, shoe covers, hydration bladders that fit under skinsuits, and teardrop helmets are the norm among serious TT racers. Tri racers don’t have time to change into TT gear and don’t use it.